If you want max protection for your engine don’t use an Oberg, System 1 or any of the ‘re-usable’ billet style oil filters
Yes, they’ll show if anything major is breaking down but so will taking a look inside the 3-4 valve cover (a lot quicker and less messy).
The micron rating of a stainless mesh filter isn’t good enough to prevent the kind of wear a good quality conventional throw away filter provides. Stainless mesh filters are little more than a sophisticated version of the original stock strainer.
I used a System 1 on the dyno for years but ran it as a pre-filter before routing through a ‘proper’ oil filter. Recently I quit using the System 1 and reverted to conventional ‘throw away’ filters. I cut them open with a filter cutter after each test session to check for abnormal wear… quicker, easier and more convenient than dismantling, cleaning and reassembling the System 1.
In the long term, engines fitted with re-usable filters will see more wear and tear on the bearings and journals than those using paper cartridge filters. The re-usable/eco claim doesn’t quite stack up either… what fluids do you use, where do you dump the mess etc?
A lot of of re-usable, stainless mesh, washable filters with billet housings have appeared on the market in the last couple of years. One of the claimed advantages is lack of a bypass valve. The advertising hype implies regular filters bypass oil at pressures as low as 8psi. What they fail to mention is bypass pressure is differential pressure, NOT absolute pressure.
Note: the System 1 and Oberg feature a bypass valve. Maybe the lack of bypass in the billet filters is more a cost saving measure than a performance enhancement?
I don’t know the HP1’s bypass pressure offhand but it’s around 20psi IIRC. To achieve that level of pressure differential across a filter, the engine would be history anyway. The advertising hype used by some of the billet filter people is (for want of a better word) misleading.
There have been quality control issues with the Fram HP1. It appears they’ve changed method of manufacture. There are a number of good quality alternatives. I’ve switched to K&N Gold HP-3001. Similar in size to the HP1 with slightly higher burst pressure, lots of surface area and excellent micron rating.
If people want to run Obergs because they look cool, cost lots of money etc, fine. I used an Oberg on my first race car thinking I was doing the right thing. I too thought it was letting me see what was going on in my engine. What I didn’t realise, it was preventing me seeing the small stuff it can’t catch.
Obergs and other similar products no doubt have their place but if your primary concern is taking the microscopic particles that can damage bearings/jourmals/pistons etc out of circulation, they’re not the best product on the market for that application.
If used as a pre-filter before a proper filter you can still play detective and have a look inside to see how much silicone your engine builder used.